Speaking about silicium, one of my favourite watches of all time is the Patek Reference 5550P. It looks like it’s a watch of the future. That dedication towards using silicium to improve chronometry is laudable, while aesthetically it’s very pleasing as well it looks highly technical and it’s unique. Now, 21 years later – 22 years later with the launch of the Freak S – it continues to take this idea of precision geometry a step further with silicium-based double oscillators. It’s one of the watches that define, or defined, this new millennium of watchmaking – Ulysse Nardin has been a key proponent of utilising silicium in the escapement, one of the earliest champions of it. I still remember the launch of the Freak, it was really incredible and really different.
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The Ulysse Nardin Freak S with its unique self-winding two-oscillator mechanism on full display in a gold-trimmed 45mm case. The Freak S that was dropped by Ulysse Nardin is exceptional. But having said that, it has all the basics of the Cartier DNA and the playfulness of the brand in a super-interesting watch. And they could have embellished the finishing a little more than the standard Cartier skeleton finishing.Īt the price, I would’ve liked to have seen more chamfering, more contrast. I would’ve preferred it if the screws were real screws holding the lugs together. I think they could have improved on a few areas. It harkens back to historic Cartier mystery clocks and, when I first saw it, I was very pleasantly surprised and spent a long time looking at it. The Cartier Masse Mysterieuse with skeletonised freewheeling movement framed by a 43.5mm platinum case. What is super fascinating about it is that it is still a little bit outsized for a Cartier, but I think the movement in itself, the concept, is remarkable. Mesmerising movementĪt Watches & Wonders Geneva, I really liked the Cartier Masse Mysterieuse, one of my top picks from the show. While it’s a perfect watch for these two gentlemen, I also love it because I think it shows Rolex breaking convention, something that is extremely novel that we’ve not seen in the collection for decades.
I also smile because – and I’m not sure whether it’s something we should disclose, but Jean Frederic Dufour is a lefty himself – I’m sure it’s a watch he’s going to enjoy wearing because he won’t have the crown cutting into his left wrist.Įven though he is a lefty, he wears watches on the left hand because he has to test them on the wrist that most of his clients will be wearing them on. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual GMT-Master II. So for him, it would be as if he is wearing a watch with the crown on the normal side of things where it should be. So, my father really likes it, but it’s not just because he’s a lefty, but because he wears his watch on the other wrist. It would be remiss not to mention Rolex’s new GMT-Master II with the left-handed crown, a watch people who are lefties would absolutely appreciate. Here, Tudor said: “Instead of doing a traditional fixed bar where you slide a fabric strap through, why don’t we construct the bars within the case?” It’s little details like this that improve the utility of the watch, the quality of the construction, the solidity of the bar to the case and the overall quality of the offer.
All dive watches, or a lot of mil-spec watches, have what they call fixed bars, soldering the bars right into the case itself. And what I think is cool about this one is it shows new design thinking at Tudor. There’s always something very interesting about diving tool watches that have been made specifically for military use. It’s a technical dive watch also built for military use, which is really important for Tudor because I believe that they are, in the future, going to own a larger share of voice in this category. The Tudor Marine Nationale Pelagos FXD, 42mm in brushed titanium, is water-resistant to 200 metres. One of the unique features about it is that it comes off a historical partnership with the French navy. It was such a stealth launch and I think not enough people know about this watch, a numbered collection. One of my favourite watches in the past six months is the Tudor Marine Nationale. In this exclusive interview, he reveals to Watch what has caught his eye this year. A passionate collector and member of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve jury, he brings dense knowledge of timepieces past and present to any discussion. Michael Tay is one of the watch world’s tall poppies, as well known in Switzerland as in Singapore, where he helms the influential Hour Glass group.
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